Welcome to my birding blog - first launched 12th March 2012...
15.08.16
Archipelago: The Coda
August 15th: our last full day in Shetland. It's been wonderful to be back. For our final trip we all headed west to Scalloway [former capital of Shetland] and then on to West Burra. I liked Scalloway. Here's the castle.
There's also an unusual post box. Ever seen a full-sized one without the monogram and initials of one of our monarchs?
We headed south towards West Burra - an island linked to Mainland by bridges. Time for lunch? Ok, let's stop here!
Here it is. Some of our group are already down there.
Walking south [I think] I gained a good view of Foula.
The thrift growing on the rocks near the sea had finished flowering.
On the way down to the beach I passed a wonderful wild flower meadow - the remains could be seen of many orchids that had finished flowering. Here you can spot field gentian, devil's bit scabious and eyebright.
There was mimulus or the monkey flower* too: this North American alien arrived in the nineteenth century and is common on Shetland.
*some species are said to have a monkey face in the flower pattern
We carried on towards the south end of West Burra until we reached Minn Beach and the end of the tarmacadammed road. There is another tombolo here with shingle on one side and sand on the other. Some reinforcement has been added to enable farm vehicles to cross.
A inquisitive seal watched the visitors.
A crofter's shed made from an old boat.
Foula, again, this time from Minn Beach.
Lots of jellyfish had been washed up on the beach. We wondered if they still sting when dead. We didn't try to find out!
A traditional Shetland cottage as restored by a local history group.
As I crossed the tombolo a fulmar flew very close overhead. Last fulmar photos of the trip!
And so we made our way back to the hostel, packed and boarded our ferry back to Aberdeen. En route we passed Fair Isle really close.
Farewell to Shetland.
Thanks again to Barry and Fiona for organising it all....
...and letting me come along. I'll never forget the whales!
13th-14th August 2016
Archipelago 3
August 13th continued: St. Ninian's Isle and the Tombolo
Before we leave Sumburgh completely I must include a couple more images. Firstly this iphone shot of lichens growing so vigorously up on the headland and then also a few juvenile kittiwake views from near the lighthouse.
Kittiwakes
An unusual aspect of Shetland life is the frequency of ruined and abandoned homes. Rather than modernise and extend it seems that the old was inadequate for modern living. Shetland is covered by a myriad of ruined houses. Here's a couple. One from Saxa Vord...
...so sad in the rain...and one from Yell. I call it 'Bookends Cottage.'
Back to Saturday August 13th! The St. Ninian's Isle tombolo [note the spelling! It's not a gambling den!] is a remarkable geographical feature. Waves part around the island so that on the mainland side waves approach each other. This brings sand to slowly form a barrier. The causeway may be breached occasionally by severe storms but it naturally restores itself.
I walked to the island and as I walked I suddenly noticed I had a companion: a sanderling was running along beside me! Cue multi-sanderling!
Reaching the far side I spotted a large group of arctic terns.
Spot all 4 species!
Eventually we headed back to Lerwick. I strolled down to the harbour again. Barry was already there and pointed me in the direction of part of the harbour where a black guillemot was chilling out...
A bird in the water seemed to be starting to go into winter plumage.
What's this herring gull got? Starfish?
Sunday 14th August: Walls and Sandness
A visit to Walls to prospect a potential future place to stay was followed by a drive to Sandness or more precisely to the Ness of Melby with its beach and views across the sound to Papa Stour. A wheatear paused briefly on the launch ramp.
An arctic skua headed fast out to sea. Not had a cuckoo shot as I call "birds as almost tiny dots" photos for some time. Here's one!
I walked round the headland to catch up with the others.
Rock pipit.
Hoodies!
Raven
Oiks!
On the beach were sanderlings, ringed plover and dunlins.
I ended the day back down in Lerwick harbour. Black guillemots for the last time.
Different plumages on immatures I assume.
Farewell tysties!
Quite a few arctic terns around as well.
Looking out from the harbour across the sound a small fishing boat was returning followed by great black-backed gulls. Two bonxies were in the mix too!
Finally, because immature gulls never get a look in, this one was watching me outside the harbour cafe.
Intermission
Archipelago: The Coda
will follow soon
11th-13th August 2016
Archipelago 2
On the one island above them all
August 11th
The weather was pretty foul on our second day on Unst. A walk before everyone else was up took Barry and me off down the damp lanes leading vaguely west. Meadow pipits were everywhere - and swallows and bonxies over the hillside. Here's a damp meadow pipit...
...and a few bonxie shots.
These greylags were very wary - probably genuine wild geese.
Saxa Vord was once an RAF base and the local roads still feature a few vestiges of that era.
The group visited the boat museum and the craft centre before going swimming at the sports centre. I took this shot of a mural in the boat museum as I really liked the atmosphere it replicated of times past.
While the gang was swimming Barry and I went for another drizzle walk. The wild angelica plants can be very attractive.
I saw the diminutive devil's bit scabious everywhere.
Hooded crows seem to elude me photographically and getting a really good flight shot is tricky [for me at least!]. Here's an attempt.
This young rabbit seemed mesmerised by the rain.
A lone bonxie flew past us against the backdrop of purple heather.
Outside the sports centre common gulls were lazing on the soccer pitch.
Before we left we spotted a couple of rock doves - one landed in a field nearby. It was very nervous and I photographed it crouching behind a stone wall. I mean I was crouching. Rock doves rarely crouch.
August 12th
Mainland
Just as the UK calls its principal island 'the mainland' on occasion, so too does Shetland. Not just a part of Scotland, Shetland clearly has aspirations!
Transfer day. We took the two ferries back south to Lerwick. Whilst waiting for the Belmont [Unst to Yell] ferry I watched fulmars in the old quarry by the car park. A tiny abandoned quarry yards from the sea, you can get really close. Unfortunately shutter speeds in the poor light and rain didn't help but here's a couple: I just love fulmars. There may be more later!
The ferries are frequent and you normally don't need to book. There are a few crossings that are marked pre-booked only as the ferry won't run if no-one has pre-booked. We always had little time to wait. Here's the small Unst to Yell ferry that thinks it's really huge!
Eventually we settled in at the wonderful Islesburgh House Hostel. I wandered down to the port [after Tesco shopping. They get everywhere!]. I was astonished to see a cruise ship off the harbour. This boat is just a shadow compared to the Unst ferry. After all, it's named the Celebrity Silhouette! [What a daft name for a ship!]
A few black guillemots were about but not as close as I hoped.
August 13th: Sumburgh!
A day to remember...
We drove South to Sumburgh and parked half way up the steep climb. For me the climb was a killer. In more ways than one. Beware opening times in Shetland! Everything of a tourist nature seems to start at 11am or, if you're lucky, 10.30. Perhaps its all to do with 'simmer dim' and late nights drinking and waiting for the sun to set just before dawn!
We hung around in the mist. I guess Barry was concerned the mist would never clear. He needn't have worried.
I enjoyed the fulmars once the mist began to clear but here's a few in the mist.
Leaning over the precipitous [i.e. steep! Why use a short word when there's an under-used long one lying idle?] cliff, I spotted to my amazement a rabbit. When I got home I realised there were two of them. I wonder how many fall off?
This damp but very smart blackbird was also on the cliff face.
We had a coffee and then the sun shone, the mists were rolled up and stashed away. The fulmars came out to play...
...and pose...
...and gossip about the neighbours!
A late youngster.
Suddenly the cry went up from 'Hawkeye' Barry. 'Here be whales!'*
Here they be...
Or is it just a black triangle?
There she blows! 2 whales. Killer whales!
Above: 3 whales!
We went to the beautiful West Voe beach with its turquoise waters. Almost Caribbean...
At the north end, away from all the humans I found some waders. Sanderling.
Waders' meeting. 'Hello! Doctor Turnstone, I presume!'
Sorry folks! it's time for another break. How else will we ever get rid of all this ice cream?
Intermission
Archipelago 3 will follow soon
9th-16th August
Archipelago 1
To the islands above all others...
August 9th
We left York early morning on the train to Aberdeen: 6 students and 3 adults on a trip to Shetland with the school where I once pretended to work. The same trip as four years ago [in the blog back issues August 2012] but staying in different places.
August 10th
After a trouble free 14 hour crossing we were approaching Lerwick in the early morning. Fulmars and gannets escorted us. [All photos on this trip with either 150-500 Sigma or my iphone!]
Passing Sumburgh Head: we would be there later on during the week!
Nearing Lerwick we passed Bressay lighthouse on Kirkabister Ness.
The first ferry of the day was crossing the sound to bring Bressay residents to work in Lerwick.
Lerwick.
We drove north in our hired minibus across Mainland, then a short ferry crossing to Yell and then finally another ferry to Unst. After Checking in to our accommodation at Saxa Vord we had provisions to buy. We stopped off at the viking longboat, the Skidbladner, a full size replica of the Gokstad ship, found in a burial mound in Norway in 1880.
Copies of Viking carvings on the prow.
Autumn gentian near the shop at Baltasound...
...plus an obligatory Shetland pony.
It was a glorious day weather-wise and we visited two wonderful beaches: Skaw and Norwick.
Skaw
Great skuas everywhere although I think most people happily call them Bonxies.
Eider with ducklings along the shoreline.
Arctic terns on the rocks. Nice juvenile.
We disturbed some sanderlings.
Walking up round the headland I spotted Barry. To tell the truth I spotted his socks first.
A very young fledgling wheatear was on the beach.
Shags were on the rocks and seemed unconcerned by my approach.
Impressive views.
The group walked back to the beach before we drove round to Norwick beach.
Norwick
Gannets were seen at both beaches plunge diving. I spent quite a while trying to catch the action!
The next sequence is all of the same plunge dive. Like a missile!
Archipelago 2
will follow after the Intermission
5th-6th August
North-east of Kettlewell...
...will have to wait until I've told you about our trip to Saltholme with my grand-daughter [aged 2]. We had a good time and enjoyed the Meadow Trail. In the Wildlife Watchpoint we were told there were three grasshopper warblers. Being very deaf at the moment there was no chance of me hearing them but my wife soon did. At least three near the beginning of the Meadow Trail I spotted two of them. Photos with Sheila's 200mm zoom.
Ok. Most people know about Scotch argus butterflies in England in the Arnside and Smardale areas to the west but the Yorkshire site seems to be less well-known or not well publicised. It's north-east of Kettlewell....
![Park Gill Beck [Scotch argus site]](https://chrisdownesbirds.com/img/s/v-10/p2005532232-5.jpg)
![Park Gill Beck [Scotch argus site]](https://chrisdownesbirds.com/img/s/v-10/p2055269150-5.jpg)
Here's a view of the site - it faces south-east and east. I saw the butterflies last year but they wouldn't pose for me as they crash down in the long grass if the sun goes in. In flight they look black. You won't see them without sunshine - preferably sunshine that lasts, say, half an hour! I saw 6 this time. One was very cooperative. I even knelt down and photographed it with my phone:
Camera shots:
Lots of wild flowers plus common blue, red admiral, ringlet and a dark green frit. Here's a few flowers: harebell and carline thistle. Butterworts seen but photos were blurred!
I saw a mole wriggling along the path. It froze when it sensed my footsteps. I nudged it with my foot and it vanished down a hole [as they do!]. I got a rear view!
I then had a wonderful drive via Wensley, the A1 and A19 to Saltholme. No gropper to be seen but a greenshank on Phil Stead's and a spoonbill performing at Dorman's. A grand day out!
Thinks it's a swan!
